Textile value Chain

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Karl Mayer's new warp sampling machine a hit in Europe.

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Textile machinery firm Karl Mayer’s warp sampling machine, Multi-Matic, has been successful in gaining a foothold on the Portuguese market. The machine is in demand for shirting and suiting with multi-colored patterns and in small production runs or high-quality furnishing textiles and upholstery articles with striking designs in large fabric widths. Compared to present conventional counterparts, this all-round machine enables to increase the production of sample warps fourfold and that of plain warps even eightfold. The system provides an automatic colour change: 128 yarn guide fingers are individually controlled and precisely guided without any loss of speed. The positioning accuracy of the yarn selection is 0.05 mm, with an acceleration of 200 m/s². The results are premium-quality products. The beams having lengths of up to 1,500 m are characterised by uniform lap build-up, constant yarn tensions, and precise material laying, according to Karl Mayer. Main reasons for the favourable investment climate in Portugal are the extremely fast style changes of the leading brand suppliers. Fashion companies like H&M and Zara provide new collections twice a month, so that the supply chain is put under significant time pressure.

The proximity to the sales and logistics centres becomes an important success factor, so that Europe is again an important production location. Paulo de Oliveira, a fully integrated textile company, has vertical production capacities that include a spinning plant, a weaving mill, and a finishing department including a dyeing section. On an area of 40,000 square metres, the Paulo de Oliveira company produces 10 million square metres of fabric per year (worsted fabrics), being one of the three biggest wool producers in Europe.

 As far as the machinery and equipment technology is concerned, this company fully relies on state-of-the-art models for all its production areas. Paulo de Oliveira has always understood that the company’s equipment with the latest available technology is the prerequisite to produce high-quality articles at a competitive price, and within reasonable delivery times. The highest investments during the last few years are focused on warp preparation as well as weaving. Main objective of the spending was to make the production process even more flexible: It should be ensured to manufacture more demanding articles in ever shorter series and with ever shorter lead times and with very high quality. So, the first Multi-Matic machine was ordered in 2013 and in 2018 there followed another model which was installed by mid of October. The Portuguese company uses Karl Mayer’s warp sampling machine to produce premium beams for high-quality worsted suits.

 

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